Hot and steamy in Hotel

The Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul, once the Sultan's summer retreat, has long been the most desirable place to stay on the Bosphorus. But when Four Seasons opened its second Istanbul outpost last summer, in a powder-pink palace up the road, they hoped to give the Ciragan some stiff competition. It seems to have worked: despite two modern wings that are more in keeping with Four Seasons' first